Jim Pavoldi, July 2021
Climbing on Petit Mountain in Wells (on that Gilmantown road between there and Speculator) is a bushwack surprise that may have unfortunately been privatized before getting the attention it deserves.
In the early 90's, I would solo the slab scrambles below the crag excitedly as a they were the obvious waypoint (although you can approach either left or right of those after hitting the lines). Once you find it, it truly is a gem and while Melor noted the accomplishments of Stuart Williams and Tad Welch, there is a lot to explore that's been left in pristine condition making a bottom up approach feel like an FA.
The short but steep bushwack approach keeps it lightly travelled despite its uncluttered base, nice summit, and dense opportunity to explore with a lot of unnamed and moderate lines with forgiving cracks and ample natural anchors. Civilization has encroached in the past 30 years; the road and been paved, homes have been built, and unlike the state forest parcel across the street, it's no longer 'green' in the GPS so it's possible we are not welcome. That said, development has continued, with visible bolts scattered about including on the headwall of the 100 foot A2 "Ain't to Proud to Peg" that I tried (and failed to lead) before getting Mellor's "green" guide and realizing it was an aid climb 4 years prior.
From the south and the town of Wells, go left on Gilmantown for 1.5 miles and park in the new state forest / elbow creek pull-off on the left about 140 yards uphill and past the old 'twin boudlers' landmark on the right. A home has been built, although it never was the best spot to enter. Drop down about 300 yards from the elbow creek parking, then cross the road and creek, and straight up the steep pine carpet just zig zagging near the natural drainage (avoiding the trap of the game trails going nowhere). Once you join the power lines, you'll see the slab and while both sides are doable, I advise going up and staying left. Straight above that you'll meet the welcome boulder, and the leftmost wall with 4 lines I have named "It's a Set Up" 5.1; Sister's Slab (TR) 5.2; and two of the shorter steep corner and crack experiments heading left out of the cave "Monkey Funk Kit" (where you'll find two holds I call "the spartan's eyes).
Moving right you'll find the named routes, "Apes or Ballerinas" 5.8, "Rev It Up" 5.9, and "More than Meets the Eye" with a variety of experiments visible as you move further right.
More than Meets the Eye was my 'go to' spot in 1995 when time was limited where the chill summit made setting up a top rope solo a pleasure. It was also where I learned to tie a water not after multiple trips and bringing a much more seasoned climber who, upon making it to the belay, looked a little spooked that I had just secured myself and the belay with a square knot (before owning 'Freedom of the Hills").
